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Chiliean Sea Bass at Cafe Ponte

Chilean Sea Bass at Cafe Ponte. Photo courtesy of Metromix

Located in the Icot Center in Clearwater, Café Ponte is an unexpected diversion in an otherwise non-descript strip mall. Serving “American fusion cuisine,” Chef Chris Ponte has an impressive culinary pedigree. Chef Ponte is a Cordon Bleu graduate with a stint at the famed Tailleventin in Paris and internships with culinary royalty like Daniel Boulud. He opened Café Ponte in 2002. Based on glowing recommendations from acquaintances and the buzz about Chef Ponte, Mister M and I arrived at the restaurant with high expectations.

The atmosphere at Café Ponte is a mix of cozy sage green and red upholstered booths and white-linened tables circling a panoramic wine cellar that is the dining room’s focal point. After being seated, we found our server to be friendly and knowledgeable. After he brought us our skillfully crafted martinis, our server returned with a hefty serving of wild mushroom bisque with truffle oil for an amuse bouche–a curious selection to start a summer supper, but a tasty beginning nevertheless.

Mister M ordered the lobster salad special. This tantalizing salad was exactly what I was craving on that hot evening and I managed to steal most of it from him. The lobster and hearts of palm, tossed with cherry tomatoes, oranges, mangos and a citrus vinaigrette–served in a glass cone tenuously suspended in a bowl of crushed ice–left both of us wanting more. Sometimes, chefs try to pair foie gras with too much sweetness, but this was not the case with Café Ponte’s Foie Gras “A” appetizer. The foie gras was perched on “french toasted” brioche with toasted walnuts, amarena cherries and drizzled with an ice wine syrup and was smooth like a velveteen pillow. It provided the perfect savory and sweet duo and was one of the highlights of our meal.

The other highlight was the Chilean sea bass, which was evidence of Daniel Boulud’s influence on Chef Ponte’s menu. Boulud’s crisp paupiette of sea bass in a Barolo sauce is the stuff of legends from his tenure as executive chef at Le Cirque in New York City. Chef Ponte’s interpretation of this favorite was flawlessly executed. The Yukon potato-encrusted sea bass was pan-fried to crispy perfection and was resting on braised leeks. The red wine reduction sauce provided an elegant finish to the dish. From this entree, it is clear that Chef Ponte’s staff has classic French cooking techniques mastered.

Unfortunately, some of the other dishes we ordered were not as successful. One of the reasons we were looking forward to trying Café Ponte was that they feature pizzas cooked in a wood-burning oven on their menu. Their pizza dough was crisp on the bottom with a satisfyingly chewy crust that would have been a great foundation for most anything. However we found the pizza selection to be uninspired. Our ultimate choice—the blue cheese, wild mushrooms, caramelized onions, toasted pine nuts and basil with a balsamic drizzle pizza —was generous in size but was too rich and heavy for the perfectly baked dough as well as a summer meal. In addition, the Hatfield Ranch Reserve pork chop with smoked bacon, caramelized gala apples, toasted pecans in a calvados sauce could easily have fed two, possibly three people. The presentation was contemporary and eye catching, and the chop was properly cooked to the temperature ordered (medium-rare), arriving to the table juicy and hot. However, the pork paired with apples and bacon felt somewhat pedestrian and would have been better suited for a chilly fall day. For that reason, it was a chore to finish and I found myself wishing for lighter, more interesting flavors like the lobster salad.

As for value, our dinner for two, including two pre-dinner cocktails, but not including a bottle of wine, amounted to a pricey $173. (Café Ponte’s wine list is short but sweet.) Appetizers and salad prices range from $5 to $17 and entrees range from $12 to $32.

Despite the shortcomings of an out-of-season menu, there are many things to like about Café Ponte. The service was excellent and the dishes that maximize the restaurant’s strengths—namely a kitchen staff that has a firm grasp of advanced cooking methods—are special and worth the visit. Ultimately, the menu at Café Ponte was too heavy for our tastes for a warm summer night, but could hit the right notes when cooler weather returns. 13505 Icot Blvd, Suite 214
, Clearwater, FL 33760. Tel: (727) 538-5768.

Cafe Ponte on Urbanspoon

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Erika Davis, Top Chef Just Desserts Contestant is from Florida

Florida's Erika Davis

Many accomplished Top Chef contestants have been demoralized by challenges requiring desserts. (Hello, Stephan and Tre!) Enter, a twist on Bravo’s successful Top Chef franchise simply called, “Just Desserts.” This season of TC has been pretty much dullsville so it will be interesting to see if all desserts all the time can hold the attention of fans for an entire season.

Regardless, you have to give Bravo credit for trying to switch things up, especially with franchise sweetheart Gail Simmons leading the charge. One reason to tune in for the September 15th debut: Erika Davis, the pastry chef at Ponte Vedra’s Inn and Club, is one of the contestants. According to her Bravo bio, Erika always has butter, sugar, salt, chocolate and heavy cream on hand, and her favorite quote is “A day is never good without chocolate.” Our kind of lady!

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best florida restaurants peaches, best florida peach recipes

Peaches are in season

August is National Peach Month. Peaches aren’t just the darling of Georgia– there are stellar varieties from Florida that are just as ripe, juicy and in season and we can’t seem to get enough.  While the ways to use peaches are seemingly endless, we are sharing some of our favorite peach recipes from around the web, as well as where to snag some stellar peach desserts in Florida.

Tampa-based Chef Debbie Frangipane’s Piemontese Stuffed Peaches are sweet, just like her.  Her suggestion: serve with a glass of Moscato wine and a dollop of whipped cream on the side. Yummy. Or how about Peach Cobbler? It’s Barack Obama’s favorite dessert, and Dixie Kitchen and Bait Shop in POTUS’s hometown has a Peach Cobbler recipe fit for the leader of the free world and for you.  Here’s a link to their peach cobbler recipe thanks to Jacksonville food blogger Debi Lander.

We found this Peach ice cream recipe via The Amateur Gourmet, one of our favorite food bloggers. Adam inspired us to make Alton Brown’s recipe and we all screamed for more. Don’t feel like cooking? Aunt Sue’s famous Peach Cobbler at Bowled in St. Petersburg is a pretty darn good substitute.  How do you like to cook with peaches?

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Patricia Rossi answers restaurant etiquette questions

Patricia Rossi

When manners guru Patricia Rossi agreed to sit down with us to answer our restaurant etiquette questions, we were poised and ready to take advantage of her years of experience as an etiquette coach and manners columnist. (Patricia’s “Manners Minute” TV segments air weekly on NBC, CBS, FOX, ABC and other affiliates throughout the U.S. ) From how to eat sushi to how to prepare children for fine dining, and what to do with those pesky cell phones in restaurants, Patricia was up to the task and gave us some great insights.

Patricia’s modern manners mantra is “Kindness as opposed to formality. Relationship…not rules,” which is also good guidance for dining in restaurants. Want to learn more? Patricia’s book “Everyday Etiquette Made Easy“ can be found on her website, www.patriciarossi.com.

Q: Our feeling regarding children and restaurants is that there is a time and place for everything. What are your feelings about kids in restaurants? When is it appropriate for them to be there and when is it not?

A: Restaurants today are more family friendly than in the past. Parents can prepare their children for fine dining by helping them with a few etiquette rules. Parents could also practice with their children the difference of dining in a restaurant and at home by role-playing. For example, kids love to use pretend menus.  Let the children pretend to be waiters and take orders, then let the children do the ordering.

My suggestion is to role play with your children on how to be a good restaurant citizen. Encourage kids to talk with their library voice so other diners won’t be interrupted, making nice conversations, and eating slowly with respectful manners. Children love to experience new things, so if the rules are discussed prior to the fine dining experience (several days before-not on the way to the restaurant) then children are more relaxed as they know what is expected. It is also important to explain why these rules are so important. Teaching by asking questions is always a great way to get the idea across. Example: “Why do you think it’s dangerous to run around waiters carrying hot food?” Let the children give the answers. Then say, “I’m so happy you would never do that.”

Q: Florida is pretty casual- there are very few (if any) restaurants that require jackets for men. It seems like anything goes including flip flops 24/7. What are few rules of thumb for what to wear when dining out? A: Cover your feet and also your armpits! There is nothing worse than trying to enjoy your food and catching a glimpse of a ferret under a fellow diner’s arms.

Q: Tipping is always a hot button topic. What is a customary tip? Should you tip on alcoholic beverages also? What if the service was poor? Is it necessary to tip when picking up takeout?

A: Standard tip is 20%. Some things aren’t the waiter’s fault, like food coming out of the kitchen late. Tipping on alcohol is about one dollar per drink.

Q: What if you order something and you just don’t like it—either because it isn’t prepared well or it just wasn’t what you expected. What’s the best way to handle it? A: If it wasn’t prepared in a manner that was discussed, for example rare when you asked for well done…Then talk to your waiter.  Most restaurants want your experience to be memorable and pleasant.

Q: What’s your rule of thumb regarding cell phone (talking, tweeting, texting) use in restaurants? A: Leave your iphone, ipod, cell phone and ipads in the car. When you are breaking bread with another person, give them your full attention.

Q: How long do you ask a restaurant to hold a table if the party you are meeting is running late? A: 15 to 20 minutes.

Q: Sushi can be confusing for diners. Are chopsticks required? The Japanese eat sushi rolls with their fingers- is that appropriate in the US? How about using a fork? A: Trying to master the art of using chopsticks can be fun–it makes the dining experience more authentic.  Remember that when taking a piece of Sushi, to turn your sticks around (the end you haven’t been eating with) to serve yourself.

Q: There are some that say ordering red meat well done at a quality steakhouse is insulting to the establishment. Is that really the case? A: The personal preference of people should be honored.

Q: How about requesting steak sauce? A: This is a dining don’t- but again the personal preference should be honored.

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Miami Spice is back…

categories Uncategorized

by: Zest Foodie


Miami Spice

Variety is the spice of life.  At least that’s what the promoters of Miami Spice—the annual Miami restaurant prix fixe extravaganza—would like you to believe.  Every August and September, Miami’s top restaurants offer special three-course meals featuring signature dishes priced at $22 and $35 for lunch and dinner respectively.

This year, the promotion promises to have something for everyone as there are nearly 160 participating restaurants— from Ago to Zuma— and every type cuisine represented. (The full list of participating Miami Spice Restaurants can be found here.) The value of the Miami Spice menu is up for debate, but at a minimum it allows diners to try restaurants that may otherwise stretch their wallets too far. For a restaurant- specific value assessment, see the first installment of the Miami New Times’ ongoing series on Miami Spice, “Deal or No Deal.”

For the first time, a Miami Spice Kickoff Event & Fundraiser is planned, featuring tastings from a selection of participating Miami Spice restaurants and celebrity chefs selling and signing cookbooks. Proceeds will benefit Share Our Strength and Madison’s Wish. The kickoff event is slated for Saturday, July 31, 2010 
at
 the Miami Beach Convention Center. Information about kickoff tickets can be found on the Miami Spice website.

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Mangia! The Ravioli Company in South Tampa has over thirty types of ravioli

Since moving to Tampa, there have been a handful of times where I’ve been certifiably homesick. Those pangs usually come when I’m missing out on my out of town family’s weekly Sunday suppers. Of course, those dinners are as much about the company as the food that is being served, but when the blues hit, I order takeout from The Ravioli Company in South Tampa.  I’ve discovered that this teenie tiny South Tampa shop is the place to pick up some of the best Italian food in Tampa.

The Ravioli Company is so much more than an artisan pasta company.  As the name suggests, there is a vast selection of handmade pastas like egg rigatoni, gnocchi and cavatelli.  But The Ravioli Company also offers sauces to go that can be mixed and matched with the pasta (twelve options in all, priced by the pint) and an full arsenal of prepared Italian entrees. The menu also has five types of lasagna, an extensive selection of manicotti and choices of pasta bakes that are perfect for serving a hungry mob.

I’d trust The Ravioli Company with making food for my pickiest guests. In fact, the salmon ravioli and fresh cream sauce served at last year’s Feast of Seven Fishes Christmas Eve dinner were from the shop. I had a tough crowd to feed that night–my family was actually in Tampa for the holidays– but they gave the delicate little pillows of flavor their seal of approval. I’ve also ordered takeout from The Ravioli Company.   The noodles in the Meat Lasagna stand up to the hearty sauce and the Chicken Marsala with Gnocchi was delish (and not mushy, I hate that!)  Keep a few pounds of meat tortellini and angel hair in the freezer (with a few pints of sauce) for quick dinners. The Baby Arugula and Cheese Ravioli and Eggplant, Sicilian Olive and Fontinella Ravioli are next on my list to try.

Sometimes, homecooked Italian food, and the food coma that ensues, is just what the doctor ordered to cure homesickness. 3413 South Manhattan Ave. Tampa, FL Tel:  (813) 254-2051.

The Ravioli Company on Urbanspoon

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Tampa's Best Brunch is at Oystercatchers

So many choices, so little time at Tampa's Oystercatchers

Last month, Mister M and I completed a Tampa foodie’s rite of passage by stuffing ourselves like little pigs in a blanket at Oystercatchers Champagne Brunch. Our expectations were high. After all, Oystercatchers was one of our favorite Tampa seafood restaurants and we considered ourselves brunch professionals- with brunch bonanzas at the Biltmore in Coral Gables and the Four Seasons in Miami under our (ever-expanding) belts. Oystercatchers rivals the aforementioned buffets and had the value-added bonus of being only half the cost of these other high-end spreads.

As expected, there’s something for everyone at Oystercatchers: traditional breakfast buffet favorites like eggs benedict and brioche French toast, sausage and bacon, scrambled eggs, and an omelet station with seemingly never-ending options. Oystercatchers also puts the “lunch” in brunch, offering a sushi bar, an extensive raw bar, a hot buffet with all sorts of warm lunch entrees and a salad bar with at least ten salad creations (the scallop, green apple and curry salad was light and zesty). There’s also a carving station, an impressive international cheese assortment and the requisite pastry and dessert island.

Truth be told, Mister M and I were disappointed in our assault on the buffet. Mister M loaded up on too many carbs (amateur mistake!) and thanks to a large portion of eggs Benedict, I didn’t attack the raw bar with my usual zeal. Regardless, we were impressed and are looking for an excuse to go back another Sunday. Champagne, mimosas and Bloody Marys are all included in the $45 per person price ($27.50 for kids). Reservations are suggested. 2900 Bayport Drive, Tampa, FL 33607. Tel: (813) 207-6815.

Oystercatchers on Urbanspoon

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Summer’s bounty can inspire the most novice canner to stash produce away for the harsh winter. (Not necessarily the case in Florida, but my Midwest roots run deep). This weekend, Mister M and I made Mother Goose proud and picked a peck (actually quite a bit less than a peck, one pound to be precise) of jalapeño peppers at local market. They are pickling as we speak.

This recipe is adapted from Michael Symon and Michael Ruhlman’s book, Live to Cook.  Symon suggests letting the peppers sit for a week, so we’ll be serving them as a sweet and hot accoutrement at next weekend’s taco barbeque bonanza.

Good tip from David Lebovitz: Pickles like this can be kept for a few weeks, under refrigeration, without any problems. If you wish to preserve them longer, you can use these canning instructions and guidelines

INGREDIENTS: 1 pound fresh jalapeno peppers, washed; 
2 1/2 cups water; 
2 1/2 cups white distilled vinegar; 3 tablespoons sugar; 
3 tablespoons coarse salt, such as kosher; 
2 bay leaves; 
2 tablespoons whole coriander seeds; 
3 cloves garlic, peeled; 
2 tablespoons black peppercorns.

DIRECTIONS:

Stab (careful now!) each pepper three times with a sharp paring knife and place them in a large glass preserving jar.

In a non-reactive saucepan, bring the other ingredients to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for five minutes.

Remove from heat and pour the brine over the peppers. Place the lid on the jar and let cool. Once cool, refrigerate for at least a week before using, if possible.

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We're rooting for Spicer in her suit against BP

Susan Spicer, respected New Orleans chef and cookbook author, sued BP last Friday. Spicer is chef at Bayona, which has been open since 1990 and is universally regarded as one of the best restaurants in Nola.

According to the New York Times, Spicer’s attorney filed the lawsuit in New Orleans federal court asking the court to certify a class-action status for restaurants and seafood sellers who have suffered damages from the April 20 drilling rig explosion in the Gulf of Mexico. The lawyers are arguing that Spicer and other chefs have built a reputation and a business using fresh, local seafood that is indigenous to the Gulf. Since the oilrig “accident,” that seafood has either become unavailable or significantly more expensive. The lawsuit is presumably also based on the deterioration of the tourist industry, which may account for a significant portion of her business.

Kudos to Spicer for leading the charge on behalf of the restaurant industry. While Bayona’s bottom line may be able to weather this disaster based on good reputation, there are many other smaller, less secure restaurants that are teetering on the brink of extinction as a result of the oil spill. They deserve a voice.

Could Florida restaurants be not far behind?

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Inside the cameo room at Bern's Steak House

If you head to South Tampa’s legendary Bern’s Steak House, you may find yourself at a crossroads of sorts. With one foot in the 1950’s and another in the present, you are immediately bombarded with the restaurant’s aesthetic- dark paneled with gilded chandeliers and an old school waitstaff serving french onion soup in pewter bowls. But you may also learn that your waiter worked on the Bern’s farm where your salad and organic vegetables were grown and that the chef ages his own beef and roasts his own regionally grown coffee. This is something that trendy locavore eateries pride themselves, yet Bern’s has been doing this for years. It is for this reason Bern’s is included on the Zest’s Best Florida Steakhouse list.

Diners flock to Bern’s because of its landmark status build on the quality of their steaks. The dry-aged, corn-fed U.S. Prime beef steaks are still the main attraction at Bern’s (62 hand-cut cuts worth), but lamb, veal, chicken and seafood are also on the menu. Sold by weight and thickness, steaks are prepared to perfection and the sauces and accompaniments are expertly executed. Impressive doesn’t begin describe their wine list (it includes some 6,500 selections). After dinner, a quick tour of the bustling kitchen, through the wine cellar to the uber cozy Dessert Room–complete with a request-taking piano player– is a required tradition. 1208 S. Howard Ave., Hyde Park, Tampa, FL, 33606. Tel: (813) 251-2421.

Bern's Steak House on Urbanspoon

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