Croquettes, Bernstein style

Chef Michelle Bernstein’s (aka Sra. David Martinez) newest Miami restaurant is more aptly characterized as a tapas lounge that offers a few regular-size entrées for those less interested in sampling small plates. The traditional tapas standards, like Spanish cheeses or pan con tomate are simple and satisfying and the Bernstein-created dishes like wild mushroom-manchego croquetas with fig marmalade or crisp-coated artichokes with creamy lemon-coriander dipping sauce, are top-notch. The white bean stew with duck and foie gras sausage was another tapas favorite. ($7-$12)

As anticipated, the food at Sra. Martinez can stand on its own, but Insiders also rave about the standout bar service at Sra. Martinez. The bitters are housemade; the juices, hand squeezed, and many of the cocktail creations include muddled herbs. Of interest are the ham-infused bourbon and the frothy pisco sours—quite possibly the best we’ve tasted. Reservations recommended. 4000 NE 2nd Avenue,
 Miami, Florida, 33137. Tel: (305) 573-5474.

Chef vs. Cook? The RHONY ponder this question.

I’ve already confessed my preoccupation of all things reality TV. (See, for example posts about The Private Chefs of Beverly Hills and Real Housewives of New Jersey). But leave it to reality television to raise the important questions for the masses to ponder. Thank you Kelly Bensimon, the self-described ”intellectual” of Bravo’s Real Housewives of New York’s gaggle for bringing an important question to light. What makes a chef a chef and a cook a cook?

The short story- Kelly’s archenemy Bethenny Frankel is a well-known chef, best-selling author and caterer. However in this week’s episode, Kelly questions Bethenny’s cooking chops. Because she isn’t Alain Ducasse and because she isn’t an executive chef, it’s Kelly’s contention that Bethenny is merely a “cook.” (This, coming from the woman who thinks the phrase “making lemons into lemonade” means psychoanalyzing people. Grain.of.salt). Nervous breakdown aside, Kelly’s deep thought was formed without knowing Bethenny’s culinary pedigree (she did after all, attend the National Gourmet Institute for Health and Culinary Arts), let alone having ever eaten anything Bethenny prepared. When pressed for support for her characterization, it was apparent that Kelly hadn’t really given the issue much thought and just wanted to lash out. But what gives, and why does it matter?

Michael Ruhlman wrote a lengthy post about what makes a chef. He proposes that, “chef means leader. Chef de cuisine means head of the kitchen. A chef who no longer cooks in his or her restaurant should be referred to as chef-restaurateur. Executive chef typically refers to one who oversees an entire kitchen or food operation.” That’s certainly a good start from someone who has given a lot of thought to the life of a chef (“The Making of a Chef,” “The Soul of a Chef” and “The Reach of a Chef” are all books written by Ruhlman). Wikipedia simplifies it even more: “A chef is a person who cooks professionally. In a professional kitchen setting, the term is used only for the one person in charge of everyone else in the kitchen; the executive chef.” On the other hand, Wikipedia defines a cook as “a person with little to no creative influence on a menu and little to no command over others within the kitchen, such as a line cook. These are usually all members of a restaurant kitchen that are underneath the sous chef in the brigade de cuisine.”

All this matters because whether you are in culinary school, work in the restaurant industry or you are a person who just enjoys good food, the term “chef” is a moniker of distinction and a show of respect. Not everyone is a chef and conversely, not everyone is a cook. And that’s okay.   Since when is calling someone a cook uncomplimentary? I’m thinking about the “Kiss the Cook” aprons my grandmother used to wear with pride. She was by no means a chef, but as the sole cook in her kitchen, the meals she prepared for her family of six were appreciated, delicious and for this reason, she was beloved and respected. And isn’t that the whole point?

Seasonal ingredients are the stars at The Refinery in Tampa

This new Seminole Heights eatery focuses on what’s local and sustainable– but you don’t have to be a locavore to appreciate what’s being served here. Housed in The Bungalow Bistro’s old spot, Refinery owners Michelle and Greg Baker (of Culinary Sherpas fame) have mastered the delicate balance of serving edgy fare in an eclectic, unpretentious setting.  No small feat.  They’ve managed to do this so seamlessly that we’ve already been back!

Our party of four liked that the prices are reasonable and the portions sensible, which allowed us to explore a sampling of all that the menu had to offer. The Refinery’s menu changes weekly to accommodate what is in season and available locally, but our highlights were the Duck Breast with Collards and Apple Slaw and the Chicken Fried Tofu. The BLT –pork belly i.e. the pig, or the “B,” with a romaine lettuce infused panna cotta (the “L”) and heirloom cherry tomatoes (We think you get the picture)–was also a hit.

Insiders are saying that the brunch is hearty and worthwile. A wine bar on the second floor is in the works and the beer and wine selection at the Refinery is sufficient and dare we say, cheap? ($15-20/bottle). 5137 N. Florida Ave., Tampa 33603. Tel: (813) 237-2000.

Photo courtesy of Jacksonville.com

For those looking for something more substantial, the homemade pappardelle with lamb ragu and the New York Bistecca with a balsamic glaze, crisp fingerling potatoes and accompanied with a whole roasted garlic–to be spread on bread or steak (or both)–receive rave reviews. Taverna’s version of “beans and greens,” using cannellini beans and escarole, is also a standout side dish.

For the finale, the chocolate pavé with mascarpone whipped cream and vanilla panna cotta with grapefruit segments and a candied citrus peel surpasses expectations. As for atmosphere at Taverna, expect a rustic European aesthetic that’s warmed with the charming service. 1986 San Marco Blvd, Jacksonville, FL 32207. Tel: (904) 398-3005.

Maybe I could have segued to this a little more smoothly, but to me, when Mother’s Day comes around,  my lovely Mom’s quintessential meal–meatballs and Sunday sauce–instantly comes to mind.  For Mister M, it’s his Moomaw’s cheese enchiladas with meat sauce. What can’t-live-without meal does your Mother or Grandmother make especially for you?