Leave the gun, take the cannoli (cake)

Thankfully, there’s Mazzaro’s Italian Market in St. Petersburg, essentially Tampa Bay’s holy grail of Italian foods. When I am jonseing for authentic Italian ingredients to make a meal at home, or want a quick Mediterranean fix, I head to Mazzaro’s.  The reasons are numerous, but it’s a one-stop shop. Featuring an amazing bakery with homemade bread (the cannoli cake alone is worth the trip), there is also an extensive butcher’s counter and market with a huge selection of oils, vinegars and other Italian non-perishables.

Mazzaro’s deli and prepared foods are a great value. Their hot and cold Italian sub sandwiches are $5-$6 and can easily feed two people—topped with a delicious Italian coleslaw that balances the salty meats and gives the sandwich a little crunch. The prepared food offerings are voluminous and vary day to day, but you can expect lots of sides like Fennel and Orange Salad with Olives, entrées like Pork Osso Buco and Chicken Milanese, all priced per pound.  The homemade sauces and fresh pasta case makes an easy to grab-n-go, an important tip because Mazzaro’s can be a little overwhelming because it’s always crowed.

My suggestion if you come during the lunch rush, relax and plan on spending an hour there. There is an Italian patio in the back of the store where you can enjoy sandwiches and the prepared foods you selected and coolers full of cold drinks including soda from Italy. Be sure to grab an espresso on your way out—Mazzaro’s roasts all their beans in-house.

Check out more of my Mazzaro’s photos on Instagram.

2909 22nd Avenue N, St. Petersburg, Florida. Tel: (727) 321-2400. Closed at 2pm on Saturdays and closed Sundays.

Croque Madam with local cured wild boar and quail egg. Photo Courtesy of Tasting Tampa

Last week I had the pleasure of sampling the new, hyper-local menu at Marchand’s, the main restaurant at the Renaissance Vinoy in St. Petersburg. Already a fan of the restaurant and its ambiance, the new menu gives me more reasons to return, season after season.

Executive Chef Mark Heimann’s vision is to elevate the offerings at Marchand’s beyond what is expected at a large resort property, and he’s doing this by centering the menu around meats, fish and produce sourced from local farms like 3 Boys, Seelys Ark and Pasture Prime Family Farm in Summerfield. The farm to table movement is perhaps the most prevalent trend in American cuisine today, evidenced by the resurgence of the local farmer’s market and community farms.  But at Marchand’s, the new menu isn’t for the sake of chasing fads, it provides great synergy with the entire experience at the Vinoy–a resort credited with the rebirth of downtown St. Petersburg. The new menu makes perfect sense at a place that embraces the quirkiness that makes St. Petersburg, and for that matter, Florida, unique.

Lobby at the Vinoy

The Chef’s first impression, made with a whimsical Mangalitsa “Croquet Madame” with Georgia Red, Fried Quail Egg, and a Silk Onion Soup Shooter set the tone for the delightful, six course Chef’s Surprise tasting menu, reasonably priced at $80 per person with a additional $30 for wine parings with each course. The house-cured, pasture-raised wild boar and melted Georgia Red cheese were tempered by an unctuous quail egg and the sweetness of the onion soup. Equally as delicious was the next course, succulent Golden Tile with Romanesco Cauliflower on a Rock Shrimp Nage, topped with a precious Sun Choke Hush Puppy. The seafood was sourced from Florida’s Gulf waters, and it shined against the subtle tarragon-infused nage.

Other highlights of the meal were the tomato vinaigrette accompanying the Key West Yellow Tail Snapper and the bacon-smoked collard greens that provided texture and acidity to the tangerine-barbequed pork cheek perched atop fried Mac n’ Cheese.

On my list to try next time? The Corned Beef Short Rib with Cabbage Gnocchi and the Florida Pink Prawns with Watermelon Relish and Lychee salad. Marchand’s Bar & Grille, 501 5th Ave NE,  St. Petersburg, FL 33701. Tel: (727) 824-8072

I was not compensated for writing this review, however, my meal was provided gratis by the Vinoy and Marchand’s.

Does anyone really need an excuse to indulge in the highlight of American breakfast? Interestingly enough, “Pancake Day” or “Pancake Tuesday” didn’t get its name in America. A colloquial term originating in the United Kingdom and Ireland for Shrove Tuesday, i.e. Fat Tuesday or the Tuesday before Lent begins, Christians coined the phrase “Pancake Day” because it was the last day that milk, butter and eggs—which were forbidden during the abstinence of Lent—could be eaten. Pancake recipes were an efficient way to use up these ingredients before they would spoil during the 40-day fasting period.

Lenten sacrifice aside, Florida has its share of notable breakfast joints. The following are our Insiders’ favorite places to get a great stack of flapjacks:

Skyway Jack’s I & II. Skyway Jacks is a St. Petersburg institution in large part because of their fantastic pancakes. The chocolate chip pancakes are sweet, but not *too* sweet and the huge blueberry pancakes are a great value. Plus, the waitresses are the friendliest around.  Original location: 2795 34th St S  St Petersburg, FL 33711. Tel: (727) 867-1907.  SJII: 11140 4th Street North, St. Petersburg, FL 33716; Tel: (727) 576-4100.

Blue Heaven. Choose from Banana, Pecan and Pineapple pancakes in second-to-none Key West ambiance. Zest’s Best Key West Restaurant. 729 Thomas Street, Key West, FL. Tel: (305) 296-8666.

Farmer John’s Key West Café. On the other side of the state from Key West, this Brooksville café serves up a huge selection of pancakes–many not surprisingly, with a tropical flair. 966 E Jefferson Street, Brooksville, FL 34601. Tel: (352) 754-8787.

Connie’s Cafe. This understated New Port Richey breakfast place keeps it simple with diner standards—but always gets it right. 8165 State Road 52, Hudson, FL, 34667. Tel: (727) 862-8797.

Lester’s Diner. Open 24-7 since 1968, this campy Fort Lauderdale institution has been a perennial Insider favorite. Prices are cheap, service is good, and the pancakes (and milkshakes!) are even better. 250 West State Road 84, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33315. Tel: (954) 525-5641.

This simple dish is a quick, family meal

Spaghetti with Tuna Sauce is a recipe that the Italian side of my family has been eating for years, and is a standard during our Feast of Seven Fishes, a cherished Christmas tradition.

The recipe is reminiscent of a leaner times when my grandparents and great grandparents made do with what they had in the pantry and when who was around the table for Sunday Supper was far more important that what you were eating.  What mattered was that the family was together, around the table laughing and reconnecting during the weekly ritual.  The family may have not been rich in the material sense but they found wealth in life’s simple pleasures.

In many ways our family has come a long way from those leaner times, and this year, my son will be going to Cleveland for his first Christmas Eve. I can’t wait for him to experience our family traditions—even if he isn’t quite ready to remember them. We’ve been so fortunate this year: Baby Melt is thriving and healthy, we have the security of a comfortable roof over our heads, gainful employment and access to a bounty of fresh food.

With all these blessings,  I can’t help but think about the many children who don’t have all the opportunities that Baby Melt has. We aren’t the only ones with hungry kids on our mind. Romano’s Macaroni Grill has teamed up with food bloggers to donate one million meals to children who don’t know where their next meal will come from.  For each blog post that mentions a favorite Italian recipe, Macaroni Grill is committed donating $50 to the Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry initiative, which will connect each needy child to up to 500 meals.

Do you want to help too? You can go into your local Macaroni Grill and donate $2 which will allow you to get $5 off your next meal. You can also use the hashtag #macgrillgive on Instagram and Twitter or share an artist inspired image from the Macaroni Grill’s Mac Grill Give Facebook Gallery and they’ll also help connect a kid with one meal.

Enjoy!

 SPAGHETTI AL TONNO (Spaghetti with Tuna Sauce)

 INGREDIENTS

1 pound spaghetti

1 (26-ounce) jar Simple Tomato Sauce, or other purchased marinara sauce

2 (6-ounces each) cans albacore tuna packed in oil, drained

1 white onion, diced

1 tablespoon drained capers

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

Grated Parmesan Cheese, optional

DIRECTIONS

Cook the pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water until tender but still firm to the bite, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, sauté the onions in olive oil in a large skillet until translucent. Then, combine the tomato sauce, tuna, capers, and lemon zest with onion. Using a fork, break the tuna into chunks. Simmer to blend the flavors, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste.

Drain the pasta, reserving 1 cup of the cooking liquid. Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Toss the pasta with enough reserved cooking liquid to moisten. Stir in the parsley and sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese, if desired, and serve.

Me and partner in crime Tracy Guida from My Other City by the Bay will be debating the virtues of bad boy Anthony Bourdain and sexy Eric Ripert after hearing both speak on the same stage at the Straz Center Sunday nite.  

Two chefs. Two unlikely friends. Two very different careers and philosophies sharing one stage.

Anthony Bourdain, chef, author of “Medium Raw” and host of The Travel’s Channel’s No Reservations and Eric Ripert, renowned chef of Le Bernardin, author and regular guest on Bravo’s Top Chef will share stories and muse on the place of food in our personal, community and global life. We are anticipating it to be an evening of storytelling, frank observation and provocative insight into what really goes on behind the kitchen doors.

For more information on Anthony Bourdain, click here. For Eric Ripert’s official website, click here. 

Are you on Team Bourdain or Team Ripert?

Join the debate. Tickets can be purchased at the Straz Center website.

Sometimes, it takes more than roses to make an impression

Valentine’s Day.

Those two seemingly innocuous words can strike dread in even the smoothest of suitors.  In a pinch to find a worthy place to woo your sweetie? No worries, it’s not too late!  Zest is to the rescue with a list of the most romantic places in Florida for Valentine’s Day, or any other day of the year.  Even Hef would be impressed.

Harry Waugh’s Dessert Room
At Bern’s  Steakhouse in Tampa, FL

Nothing says sexy like a piano player and a dessert menu that rivals an Encyclopedia Britannica. Mister M and I have been known to skip the Bern’s dinner experience altogether and instead head straight to the cocoon-like dessert room for a night cap and something sweet. The piano player can play anything- last time we tested him with a Prince and an Erasure request and he delivered on both!

Wish
Miami Beach, FL

This is candlelit alfresco dining at its best. Located at The Hotel, Wish’s garden provides leafy seclusion from the Collins Avenue hustle and bustle and some of the best contemporary American fare on South Beach.

Dream Chaser Charters
Sunset Dinner Cruise
Key West, FL

Why fight the crowds in Mallory Square for a mere glimpse of the sunset when you can enjoy it during a four-course gourmet dinner aboard the privacy of a chartered sailboat?

Grove Isle Club & Gibraltar
Coconut Grove (Miami, FL)

What’s so incredible about this boutique hotel and spa is that while it’s a stone’s thrown from both downtown and the heart of Coconut Grove, its isolated isle location makes civilization feel miles away.  Gibraltar, the hotel’s main restaurant, offers breathtaking nighttime views of the Miami skyline.

Brazilian Court and Cafe Boulud
Palm Beach, FL

The courtyard of this historic hotel, located a few blocks from Palm Beach’s Worth Avenue, oozes romantic rest and relaxation. Add Café Boulud– Daniel Boulud’s branch of his frenchy Manhattan restaurant–into the mix and you have a date that would make cupid proud.

Beach Bistro
Anna Maria Island, FL

Beautiful Gulf of Mexico sunsets plus outstanding New American and Florribean Cuisine equals romance every time.  Is there anything more decadent than chocolate truffle terrine?

A familiar site on Dale Mabry, stop in the Cafe for one of Tampa's Best Breakfasts

The Tahitian Inn Cafe is an oldie but goodie. Mister M and I have been there at least 20 times for breakfast and lunch and count on the Tahitian for a quick, go-to breakfast or lunch.  I’m not sure why it’s taken me so long to include it in the ZEST’s Best list, but I think it’s because it’s such a habit, I take it for granted.

The Tahitian Inn has a long history in South Tampa. In the 1950′s The Tahitian was situated on a parcel of land owned by Santo Trafficante Jr., the notorious mob boss, and was a hotspot for his mobster associates. More recently, the Tahitian Inn allegedly was the site of Michael Lohan’s latest bout of domestic bad behavior that landed him in Hillsborough County Jail with a new criminal charge.

Sorrid history aside, we frequent  The Tahitian Inn Cafe because the menu features simple and straightforward coffee shop fare that’s cheap–eggs, pancakes, waffles, and a variety of omelets are all in the $7 to $9 range. Food comes fast and with a smile from friendly servers. At lunch, the variety burgers and BLTs are consistently great.

Once evening comes, the Tahitian Inn Cafe turns into Kon-Tiki, featuring a Island fusion menu inspired by the restaurant’s recently-updated Polynesian décor. Dinner at Kon-Tiki falls short on flavor and translation but we keep coming back for one of the consistently best breakfasts in Tampa. 601 South Dale Mabry Hwy,
 Tampa, Florida 33609. Tel: 813-877-6721.

Our Yummy House dim sum tradition made the Best of 2011 List

2011 was momentous eating year for Mister M and I. We were fortunate to squeeze in a ton of travel and experience new and exciting cultures. Of course, those adventures also gave us the chance to sample lots of great food.

I started 2011 on a detox kick. While I was somewhat successful in ridding myself of some bad habits, but I found myself rounding out 2011 thinking less about what my next great meal was going to be and more about how fortunate we are to just have food on the table.

With the impending arrival of Baby Melt in May 2012, I’ve been considering the kind of world I want my child to grow up in and what I can do to make sure he’s healthy. That started with me really honing in on where the food on our table is coming from and, after finding out we were expecting, cooking much more at home. (Which incidentally, was one of my New Year’s resolutions, even though it took me nearly eights months to get there!)

Change, it is a-coming, and 2012 will undoubtedly be more low-key for Mister M and me. Less white tablecloths in exotic locales and loads more home cooking– but also the opportunity to dig into to some local Tampa Bay Restaurants that I simply ran out of time to try this year.

Unfortunately, when the food gods shine down, you do what you can to capture the moment on the fly—lighting and cameras be damned! A food stylist I am not, but here is my recap of the best and most memorable bites and meals from 2011.

Wishing you a healthy and prosperous 2012!

Graham Elliot

Mister M and I started 2011 off with a bang at Graham Elliot in Chicago. Not only did we get to meet The Top Chef Master himself, we had an amazing prix fixe meal including a finale of a 24 karat chocolate twinkie confection.

Pasta in Positano

Our girls’ trip to Italy this spring confirmed what I already knew: Italians do it better. This bravado was on full display at daVincenzo, a three-generation family-run restaurant in Positano, Italy. This rigatoni in a tomato sauce with meat followed by a zingy lemon sponge cake was unforgettable. We learned that the meals at daVincenzo’s are still lovingly prepared by the family’s Nonna. The food was not fancy, yet it was incredibly cravable.

Burrata

Ladies cut their Macho Burger in half before devouring

Macho Burger at Chris Madrid’s

I confess that I’m a cheeseburger purist— I loathe bacon, fancy cheese or grilled mushrooms on my burger. I want the beef to shine. So I had guarded expectations about how the Macho Tostado burger at San Antonio’s beloved burger joint Chris Madrid’s–with its laundry list of Tex-Mex toppings–could really be that good. Boy, Mister M proved me wrong. The Tostada burger delivered to our table was a perfect bundle of ooey-gooey goodness. The eggy bun had a beautiful sheen to it. The half-pound patty, pounded thin, spilled out well beyond the bun and was topped with chopped onions, homemade refried beans, crushed tortilla chips, pico de gallo, and cheese for as far as the eye could see.

Little Momma and The Big Momma

Big Momma & Naschmarkt

The cheesewurst I had at the roadside stand Würstelstand LEO set a new sausage standard. They call it the Big Momma for a reason, as it’s the Queen of Vienna würstel. The french bread torpedo is perfectly hollowed out from the inside, allowing the bread to completely envelope the sausage and condiments, rendering it fully portable. That same day we had a great afternoon at Naschmarkt, Vienna’s market in the city center, lined with bars and restaurants and lots of vendors selling local produce and meats.

Carne Asada at El Farolito

Carne Asada

We tentatively entered this San Francisco Mission District hole-in-the wall looking for burritos, and almost walked out. I’m so glad we didn’t. El Farolito’s knock out carne asada and burritos with homemade salsas served alongside margaritas ladled out of utility buckets were one of the highlights of our West Coast trip.

Dim Sum at Yummy House

Sunday afternoons at Tampa’s Yummy House have become a habit for me and Mister M. The black bean chicken with green beans along with a few rounds of dim sum (the pork filled steamed buns and shrimp balls are our favorites) are our go-to NFL warm up. Considering how terribly our fantasy football teams performed this year, we might need a new tradition. But honestly, I’m willing to forsake fantasy domination in exchange for Yummy House steamed buns.

Sausage and The Salt Lick

Everything is bigger in Texas and our trip to Austin was supersized. I’ve been a Salt Lick barbeque fan for many years, but for some reason, our most recent trip to the Salt Lick Ranch, just outside of Austin, really hit the spot. Texas is known for its brisket but my favorite regional specialty is the smoked sausage, a testament to the Texas Hill Country’s strong German roots. Salt Lick is extra good because their tangy, mustardy sauce is fantastic. For me, eating doesn’t get much better than the Salt Lick pulled pork and sausage platter with a Shiner Bock in hand.

Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon

Pasteis de Balem Nostalgia | Photo by Gina Melton

Despite significant historical sights in the Belém neighborhood in Lisbon, the real reason for the pilgrimage to Belém for me and Mister M—as well as and hundreds of thousands other people each year—was to stop at a nearby pastry shop called the Cafe Pastéis de Belém, home to the little gems of Portugese baking: Pastéis de Belém.

Once you’ve taken a bite you will understand why these confections are so special. The shell is made from a buttery and flaky massa folhada, Portugal’s version of puff pastry. Inside, a luscious, warm, custard calls your name, over and over again. I will never be able to replicate these little desserts, but I’m hoping my new friend and food blogger Isabel Laesig from Family Foodie will teach me how to make a version someday.

Ma Peche

David Chang is a freakin’ genius. I’ve jumped on the bandwagon and am a believer. Our meal at Midtown’s Manhattan’s MaPeche was probably the most fun meal of the year— aided by a crowd of great friends and a rockin’ playlist. Every course was memorable but the crispy pig head—which was recommended by just about everyone we talked to about Ma Peche—stood out. Bracing ourselves for an outrageous presentation of an actual pig’s head, we were pleasantly surprised when the pig head packages arrived. The meat inside the crispy puck was moist and complimented by a tangy mustard. And, underneath was a tasty pile of stewed lentils.

This was service for one

Once you go Czech you never go back

Mister M and I’s first stop when arriving in Prague was to Hlucna Samota, a local bar that served Czech favorites. The all-star concoction of pork with potato dumplings, sauerkraut and bacon sounded like a comfort food dream. Then they brought me this trough—with it’s own source of fire—and I thought, they had to be kidding. I learned that Czechs rarely joke about food, so I shut my mouth, downed some Pilsner Urquell and dug in. I could barely make a dent in it, but it was outstanding.

The Singapore Chop-Chop Salad and other fresh entrees from Seaside Cafe

Chef Donna Wynter has worked in some of South Florida’s best Hotel restaurant kitchens, including a stint as Chef du Cuisine at Palme d’Or at The Biltmore Hotel in Coral Gables and at the former Baleen at The Grove Isle Club.

These days, Wynter’s significant culinary talent is focused on building the restaurant scene at the Waldorf Astoria’s  Boca Beach Club, where she is the Executive Chef at the resort’s restaurants.

Wynter “enjoys the stability of hotel restaurants and the diversity of the people she gets to work with in the hotel industry” and is particularly excited about the resort’s newest concept, the Seagrille.

Buttercup umbrellas line the beach at the Seagrille where diners can enjoy waiter service or a beach buffet that’s seafood-focused, yet still family friendly. The Cafe menu features lobsters and seafood prepared table-side and other options that are  causally elegant and health-conscious. Lighter fare, like the Mediterranean plate featuring dolmas, chick pea hummus and whipped feta spread and the Singapore Chop-Chop Salad, tossed with peanut dressing in a large martini shaker and poured into a bento box, provides beachgoers with fresh cuisine with a dash of whimsy.

The best part? Diners can enjoy this beachside elegance for a fraction of what you might expect. The beachside buffet at the Seagrille, including a lobster bake with accoutrement, is $23.

One of Chef Wynter’s most beloved  dishes is her conch chowder, a recipe she was kind enough to share with ZEST readers.  (See recipe below)

Boca Beach Club, 900 South Ocean Boulevard, Boca Raton, FL 33432.

Conch Chowder

Chef Wynter

Chef Donna Wynter, executive chef at the Boca Beach Club, graduated from the French Culinary Institute in New York City, and has worked her way through South Florida’s most esteemed hotel restaurants.

A Floribbean favorite, Conch Chowder is one of Wynter’s most popular dishes. If you can’t make it to Boca Beach Club’s Seagrille to try it yourself, here is the recipe to enjoy at home.

INGREDIENTS:

1pound Ground Conch, ¼ cup of each, red, yellow, green peppers diced

1 cup of yellow onions diced, 2/3 cups bunches celery diced, 2 diced carrots, 2 cups potatoes diced (and blanched al dente), 2 garlic cloves crushed, 1 can of coconut milk, 2 cups clam juice, 2 cups V-8 juice, 2 cups tomato juice (combine all wet ingredients with herbs), 1 cup whole plum tomatoes, 1 tablespoon Worcestershire, 1 ½ teaspoons of mixed dried basil, thyme and oregano, ¼ cup clarified butter, 3 tablespoons unsalted soft butter (mix butter and flour together to form a paste), 3 tablespoon flour

DIRECTIONS: In a hot pot add clarified butter, sauté ground conch, add peppers, onion, celery, carrots and garlic cook until tender, add butter and flour paste and incorporate well. Add wet ingredients and simmer for 45 minutes, finish with blanched potatoes and simmer for an additional 15 min until potatoes are fully cooked.

Serve with oyster crackers.